I am always honoured to make beautiful heirlooms that become part of your story, destined to become treasured pieces that are passed down through the generations. So when C contacted me I was delighted to take on a new commission.

I have been working as a jeweller in Wimbledon, South West London for 20 years now, in fact my business will turn 20 this year! It is unbelievable how quickly time passes and how much you learn along the way, but that is probably a subject for another blog post another time.

C had made a significant life change moving from her native Canada to live and work in London, not far from me here in Wimbledon.  Amongst the precious few bits and pieces she brought with her was a beautiful blue topaz.  

She had found this large stunning blue topaz in a drawer in her parent’s house.  She fell in love with it the minute she saw it, but was not sure if it had any value, nor did she know where it came from. Unfortunately, no-one in her family could tell her either.  

They think her grandfather bought it years ago, but are not quite sure.  She took it to a jeweller who told her it was an aquamarine.  But, the minute I saw it I knew it was not an aquamarine.  I am not a gemologist but years of experience have given me an eye for gemstones.

I took it to a gemologist and had it looked at and it turned out to be a beautifully cut blue topaz.

Why your jewellery designer won’t work with your gemstones

I am more than happy to work with my client’s gemstones, in fact I feel quite honoured when they entrust me with such valuable pieces, but not all jewellery designers are willing to work with your stones.

This is for two reasons: 

First: It is a high risk for any smaller jeweller to use a client’s own gemstone

Though most gemstones are hard to break, it can be done.  A sudden bad move of the wrist while setting can scratch a stone or even chip it.  Particularly if they are soft gemstones, like opals or emeralds. Though many jewellery designers will make you sign a clause that exempts them for all responsibility it is an awful thing to deal with as a jeweller.  Who wants to break a client’s stone? Not I!

The cost of replacement can be exorbitant, and the sentimentality priceless.

Not only can a stone be chipped but it can also get lost, particularly tiny little gemstones that are hard to find. That is a cost we just have to assume.  So many jewellers prefer to use their own stones, because what happens if it can not be replaced? What if our suppliers don’t have them?

Second: for a jewellery designer there is no profit in using a client’s own gemstones.  

If a jeweller is only in the business for the money, this is probably the real reason they won’t take on your gemstones. A jewellery designer that has access and a strong relationship with gemstone and diamond dealers will get trade prices that will then transform into profits.  

Some jewellery designers even have access directly to mines and cut the middleman out directly, that will give them a big profit margin, so why use yours?

It is not that I am a 100% altruistic jeweller or that I am running at a loss or even working as a non-profit.  For me the beauty of jewellery is in the sentimentality it holds.  Rubies, diamonds, or any other gemstone that are handed down through generations hold so much history and I am a romantic at heart.

Related: 7 Things you need to consider when redesigning your old jewellery from a jeweller’s perspective

So back to C’s story.  She came to me with a very clear idea of what she wanted: a pendant in gold with colourful gemstones to compliment her blue topaz.  She wanted vibrancy and cheerful colours to match her bubbly personality.

The gemstones we chose to compliment her blue topaz were: a bright pink Rubelite, an orange sapphire and green tsavorite garnet.  Plus one blue topaz.

The pink rubelite has a beautiful raspberry colour that is often confused with rubies but it is actually in the pink tourmaline family.  Rubies are gorgeous and regal but we were looking for more of a pink hue.

Most people think sapphires only come in blue, but they come in a variety of vibrant colours.  Orange sapphires are quite rare, but when you can find them they are bright and bold in colour.  

Green tsavorites are actually garnets, which usually are a deep red. But when they come in green they are superb!

According to The Rare Gemstone company: “Tsavorite is one of the most "honest" of all gems on the market today. It is simply cut, there are no treatments, enhancements or synthetics. It is one of the most endearing features of this wonderful gemstone”.  

The pendant was hand carved into wax by me and then cast into 9 carat yellow gold.  All the gemstones were then set and the final piece was sent to the London Assay Office for verification.

If you would like to see a fun short video on how it was made, I documented some of the process on my instagram:

As with any commission, it is always an honour to be trusted to create something with such sentimental value. C was delighted with her pendant, and I think this pendant was a joy to work on – hearing all about her move and talking to someone who is so enthusiastic about colour was a real joy. 

If you have a gemstone sitting in a drawer, why not reach out and we can have an informal chat.

Militza Ortiz

A Wimbledon, London based jewellery designer/maker with 20 years experience.  

I am passionate about envisioning and hand creating future heirlooms.