How much does bespoke jewellery really cost?
So, how much can I expect to pay for custom made jewellery?
This is, by far, THE most common question I am asked as a jewellery designer.
Interestingly enough, it’s also almost always asked in the exact same way: barely above a whisper, with the same aloof, nonchalant tone - as if the inquirer is asking on behalf of someone else and yet is fooling no-one. I do understand people’s hesitation - even just the word ‘bespoke’ sounds sooo expensive. But believe me, no-one walks into this process without some sort of budget so there really is no harm in asking.
My theory for this hesitancy (based purely on my own suspicions) is that everyone has googled this question at least once in their life and come across the same vast array of vague, useless, yet incredibly intimidating, articles, blogs and webpages that answer exactly zero of their questions.
I recently turned to the great oracle myself and googled this question word-for-word, only to realise that all of the Internet’s answers are basically a variation on ‘how long is a piece of string?’, or worse: ‘it’s not about money, it is about what the jewellery means to you’.
As a result, I have decided to take it upon myself to do humanity a favour and take on this challenge so that future generations may live in wisdom. Below I will outline the six most important factors that will impact the cost of commissioning a piece of bespoke jewellery in the hope of finding an answer.
1.-The cost of the jewellery design consultation
The first step in designing a piece of bespoke jewellery is the initial consultation. This can last between one to two hours and largely consists of you and the designer sussing each other out. You’ll hear ideas from them, they’ll hear ideas from you and both of you will try to work out whether you actually want to work with each other. As the client, you want to figure out whether you and your potential designer have chemistry with each other and more importantly, if the designer is enthusiastic about your project and if your ideas align somewhat.
A consultation with a jewellery designer is just like any other - be it with a doctor, a dentist or a stylist - and will inevitably take up hours in this professional’s working life. Consequently, a lot of jewellery designers will charge you for this first meeting - anything from £25 an hour to £200. Think of it a bit like a deposit, that eventually goes towards the final price. And as this my article, I have no qualms in adding a bit of shameless self-promotion here and letting you know that my initial consultations are free, I am a small jewellery business in Wimbledon, South West London.
2.- The type of metal you are going to use
This is one of the most important factors when it comes to calculating the cost of commissioning a piece of bespoke jewellery, so if you’re just skimming through this article, do yourself a favour and take two minutes to read this section thoroughly.
The main metal, and the purity of that metal, is one of the key elements that is going to drive the core cost. As you might expect, gold is more expensive than silver and platinum is pretty much on parr with gold, but.it is denser. And whilst this may sound like I’m teaching your grandmother to suck eggs, there’s a fair amount of nuance here you may not be familiar with so bear with me.
GOLD IS EXPENSIVE (SHOCKER)
Let’s start with gold. The higher the carat - the purer the metal - the higher the price. It’s as simple as that.
A carat refers to the percentage of pure gold within an article. For example, 9 carat gold has 37.5% pure gold, it has a higher percentage of other metals, making it cheaper and giving it a light-yellow hue. On the other hand, 24 carat gold consists of 99.9% gold. It’s the ultimate gold carat - naturally very yellow and highly valuable.
In between you have 14 carat (58.5%), 18 carat (75%) and 22 carat (91.6%). However, there is also geographical variation to consider. For instance, 14 carat gold is not that common in the UK, whereas it is in the US where it is used for a lot of middle-range gold jewellery, making it a cheaper option in the US and a rarer option in the UK.
Personally, I love the soft yellow hue of 18 carat gold.
POTENTIALLY PLATINUM?
Though both gold and platinum are strong and durable metals, platinum is the stronger and more durable of the two. Platinum prices vary dramatically. In the last few years platinum has gone down considerably and at the time of writing, platinum is currently at a similar cost per ounce as 18 carat white gold, even though the international market prices usually can drive it up.
More importantly though, platinum is much denser, and therefore heavier than gold, making the same piece of jewellery more expensive.
AND LAST (BUT NOT LEAST SILVER)
Silver is inevitably going to be your cheapest option. Having said that you also do need to take into consideration that the design and labour costs are the same, regardless of the metal. This means that a bespoke silver jewellery piece is never going to cost you the same as something that comes straight off the shelf.
To give you an idea of how international market metal prices move, you can check out Bloomberg Metal Prices , but please take into account that these prices are before the gold or silversmith even touches them. This is just to give you an indication of movement and fluctuation.
RELATED: To see examples of an example of one of my bespoke jewellery work, click here.
3.- Size and weight will affect the cost of jewellery
Of course, another crucial component for commissioning bespoke jewellery is the size and weight of the piece you want made. Is it small and thin? Is it big and heavy? If it’s a pendant, does it need a chain? Did you remember to multiply the price by two if it’s for a pair of earrings (sounds obvious but you really would be surprised!)?
As custom made jewellery tends to be made from one of the three precious metals listed above and these metals are priced by the gram based on international market prices, the heavier the metal, the more expensive it’s going to be.
GEMSTONES
The stones you pick are often going to be the focus of a piece of jewellery. They’re how the piece becomes unique and takes on its own character and personality - they add colour and shine. Because of this, I always think it’s worth investing in beautiful and good quality stones. But of course, this can mean different things to different people: you may opt for a smaller precious stone, or a bigger semi-precious stone, it’s up to you! Here is a short guide to get you started with precious and semi-precious stones and what you should expect when you’re dealing with either.
Precious Stones
Diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies - these are the holy grail of stones. The distinction between precious and semi-precious stones goes back to the ancient Greeks and traditionally these four precious stones are the ones that are most expensive and sought after.
Semi-precious Stones
Every other gemstone that isn’t one of the four mentioned above is considered to be semi-precious. Some of my favourites include tanzanite,, alexandrite, pearls, turquoises, aquamarines, tsavorite garnets - the list goes on! These tend to be more economical but given the vastness of this category, there’s still a lot of variation within the group. For example, you could have a really beautiful aquamarine that’s very bright and very big that can be worth more than a small diamond with inclusions.
Moreover, the distinction between precious and semi-precious has no real scientific backing. For instance, emeralds are a variety of a beryl, so are technically a kind of aquamarine. So my advice to you is: don’t get too caught up in this precious/semi-precious distinction because these arbitrary values are really just a figment of our imaginations.
Nowadays, the value of gemstones is not just decided by whether it belongs in the precious or semi-precious category but is dependent on other parameters. Unlike gold, gemstones are weighed in carats. The price per carat varies according to a stone’s quality, rarity and provenance. There are a number of interlinked factors that affect the price of the stone - the system is so complex that it’s actually science that can be studied: gemmology. At the end of the day, my advice is to just buy the stone that you fall in love with because that’s what’s going to give your piece of bespoke jewellery your own touch.
RELATED: To see an example of a semi precious gemstone bespoke ring click here
4.- Jewellery Design
It goes without saying that when you commission a piece of bespoke jewellery, you’re going to expect your designer to be someone who is creative, experienced and original. But what is often forgotten is that these intangible qualities - creativity, experience, originality - have their own cost too. Designing a piece of jewellery is no easy feat - it requires imagination, resourcefulness and vision, as well as buckets of patience. A designer may spend hours designing and redesigning the same piece of jewellery in various ways, drawing sketches, refining ideas in technical drawings and making mock-ups. Is it structurally sound? Does it suit the lifestyle of its wearer? Does it suit their style? Ultimately, you are paying for this person’s mind, creativity and experience and who you choose to design with will considerably affect the final cost of you piece of bespoke jewellery.
5.-Manufacturing and craftsmanship of bespoke jewellery
When it comes to manufacturing, it is important to remember that your piece of bespoke jewellery will often pass through the hands of several specialised craftsmen and women. The mounter, the caster, the setter and the engraver will all be specialised individuals whose only job it is to mount, cast, set or engrave. They’re real masters in specific trades that have been alive for centuries. Whilst some jewellery designers outsource these manufacturing jobs abroad by shipping their pieces to China and other countries, I’ve always thought that we have a responsibility to keep this trade alive in the UK where the industry is regulated and accounted for. However, these are all separate costs requiring the expertise of specialised individuals, which is definitely something to keep in mind.
Some final thoughts…
2,000 words later and unfortunately, in spite of all my criticism, what I’ve come to realise is: bespoke jewellery really is a question of ‘how long is a piece of string?’ and there’s really no way to assess the value without considering ‘what the jewellery means to you’.
If you would like a free consultation for your bespoke jewellery project please get in touch.
Militza Ortiz
Wimbledon based jeweller with 20 years experience. I envision and hand create future heirlooms.
